Playas del Coco

Yesss we are still in Playas del Coco, waaat!! It is not such a great town here, but ! We are having a good time anyway, despite the welcome committee here on our first night, which consisted of two dudes and a knife waiting on the beach for us at 9pm. After some physical debating, we ended up swapping our drybag full of electronics for their little knife, and gave them some exercise as well- maybe not a very equal swap but we do always need cutlery on medusa. Anyway the next day my brother and Janet showed up to spend a week or two with us, and we met the super cool peeps aboard the giant 53 foot pirate ketch Karaka , captained by a French dude and crewed by whatever couchsurfers he finds.

Janet and malcolm freaken loved it on medusa, you know why? Cuz medusas the best. Yes we had four people on board- janet, malcolm, michaela and i- but it seemed to work out, mostly because every night we’d row over to Karaka with some veggies and some beer and maybe some bread or something and basically just invade their boat. You can stand up down below, on Karaka. I mean, of course i can, but even michaela can.

After Micheala, Rae Rae and I had finally checked in , visited port captain and gone to immigration and all that (we’d arrived late friday, had to wait till Monday to do it all!) us Medusa crew had the nicest sail over to Bahia Huevos, just across the way! We caught a massive beast of the sea which ripped out, strangely, the rapala part of our lure? And bent back his head and stuff?? Weird, I don’t know what was on the end of that line, but I’m going to have to see if i can replace the rapala bit  – it’s that flat disc thing coming out of the lure fish’s chin, you know? Cuz that is one tasty looking lure.

The winds around here are so fickle!! They come from any direction they want to,especially when you get closer to anchorage and it’s just doing twirly whirlies all around. So eventually we dropped the sails and Malcolm and Michaela got out the oars, and rowed us into anchorage. Good crew. What a cute little anchorage! Seeing as we had lost that sea creature which snapped the lure, we got out the spear gun, and before long malcolm and I had both speared a fish, let’s see, malcolm got like a scrawled filefish i think, which is just a triggerfish really, according to me. and I got like, some kind of jack, a big eye jack or something. We then used all our tinfoil to wrap up some potatoes, slice and dice some tomatoes and onions and chuck them in the tinfoil packets with the fish filets, and went find some firewood on shore. Originally Michaela and I were going to sleep on shore with our super cool hammocks but as we were lighting the fire and that we got to see a really long pretty snaky looking snake snaking his way around a tree and into a little mouse nest full of mice and we were like, ohhh, well, night on medusas not so bad really is it. Considering none of us really know anythign about costa rican jungle.

So huevos was really cool, the only shame is that during the day it is full of all kinds of tourboats full of tourists using really strange but ultimately dorky watercraft, so we pulled up anchor the next day, went back to Cocos to replenish our tinfoil situation and refill our litros of beer- next destination: Ollies point!

Yay! The winds were super fickle and we were going about two knots, which was especially disheartening when our mates on Karaka motored past at like five knots, but soon enough the wind picked up and we had a fantastic sail! And we caught a couple of bonito, or barrilete, whatever those ones are, nice big ones.  Oh man finally we sailed into the bay and I left my crew to do all the anchoring routines and put away the sails and gut the fish and all those good ones, to go surfing for the last hour or two of sunlight, it was maybe head high on the outside sets and just suuuuch good waves, long, nice steep takeoffs, some super fast sections, some pretty mellow sections, just super super fun. Wah.

The next morning session wasn’t so good, as the mornign got on there was about four or five tour boats full of surfers that came out, low tide came around and it started really working, I paddled out again just as the last boat was leaving, and the evening session with the waves all to ourselves was epic.  Yess soo good.

Unfortunately later that night, after another delicious dinner aboard Karaka, it became so windy that we were very unsure about rowing Munter home. We’d actually swum over earlier that evening because it was kind of windy, but not super windy, and we’d kind of all been stung by jellyfish, so no one wanted to swim home. Karaka super greatly lent me a kayak which is probably slightly more hydrodynamic than Munter, and i battled my way back to Medusa while my crew made little nests in Karaka for the night.

It was a wild night you guys, really freaken windy, lots of getting up and down and checking on this and that and making sure the anchors not chafing too much and trying to eliminate all the noises and generally not sleeping, but finally I did, and when i woke up !! No karaka!! What the, they took my crew!! After a sec i spot them way down the other end of the bay, where I guess they moved for extra protection as they had dragged a few times in the night.
Well in such great winds I can’t do anything by myself really, unless I ditch my anchor and re-anchor with my stern anchor, but I wasn’t dragging or anything, so i figured, well, I guess I’ll just hang out here for a day or two while the winds calm down. So freaken windy there was no surf at all, either.

Luckily ! Michaela and Tom, on Karaka on the other side of the bay, got in some kayaks, then they paddled the kayaks to shore, then they portaged the kayaks to the estuary which runs parallel to the beach I suppose, and kayaked along it, and portaged the kayaks back across the beach, and paddled out to me! And said, hey, you wanna hang out?

Cool so with some stress, due to dragging 3 ocean kayaks behind medusa, which were flipping upside down and filling with water, we managed to chug across the bay and wow! It was so much calmer. Lovely. And i am not so lonely anymore.

Well it sort of calmed down the next day to cruise back to Cocos, we had a pretty great sail, and then we had a really great sail, and then it started to be a really exciting sail!! Dang. We changed down headsails and we were so, so close to the anchorage there at Cocos, in fact, we were at the very mouth of the bay. Pretty much there. And all of a sudden! What happens but the boom snaps in half.

That’s a pretty unusual thing to happen on my boat, we limp in to the harbour and we’re like, what. What.  The boom’s got a 90 degree bend in it. This is no good.

Well there’s not much to do about it though, but find someone to weld it back together right!
So that’s what i’m up to right now, I got this guy Charlie who reckons he can do it for me, and I am done with writing for now so I’m going to go see if I can track the guy down, fingers crossed to see if it’s been put back together O.k.!!


Posted on March 9, 2013, in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink. 2 Comments.

  1. I liked your original description of trying to sleep on that windy night…jaw-clenching. Fingers crossed the guy has done a good job on the boom!

  2. Great stories, Nao. Major “phew” on the dudes with the knife. I bet that guy has a pretty low self image now…losing out to a diminutive female. You, on the other hand, get major Bad-Ass status.

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